Monday, April 14, 2014

My Happy Place: Glendalough

I encountered quite a few spiritually significant places around Ireland, but one in particular stayed with me more clearly than any other: Glendalough. Founded by Saint Kevin in the 6th century, this monastery is nestled in the Wicklow Mountains and sits between two lakes, which is where the name comes from ("gleann da loch" means "glen of two lakes"). In its heyday, Glendalough was not only home to a monastery, but also to a settlement that grew up around it. Most of the remaining buildings at Glendalough, including several churches and an impressive round tower, date from the 10th to the 12th centuries. Glendalough was a key ecclesiastical site and a cradle of learning and culture until 1214, when invading Normans destroyed the monastery. Today, the site is part of the Wicklow Mountains National Park and draws visitors from all over the world.

Memories of Glendalough are among the happiest ones I have of my trip to Ireland. The whole site was breathtakingly lovely, with the spectacular views of the surrounding valley and the lakes on each side. A rushing river enhanced the feeling of peaceful closeness to nature. The buildings themselves were even intimate with nature: I took a photograph of a button fern growing out of the wall of St. Kevin's Church. I remember sitting on a rock in a little grove of trees beneath the round tower, taking a moment to appreciate the beauty of it. As I sat there, a bird landed in the tree above me, and all of a sudden I understood the simple pleasures of nature that the monks who lived at Glendalough must have enjoyed.
Glendalough felt strangely familiar to me. The stone walls, the little churches and mighty round tower, the trees, and the soft roar of the river all seemed very comforting and homey. And the peacefulness of it was incredible! Even though it was crowded, with two other tour groups in addition to my group, the site was relatively quiet. Perhaps the other visitors, like me, sensed the spirituality surrounding the site and wanted to respect it. Sacredness can actually be felt at some places, if its presence is strong enough. I definitely felt it at Glendalough.

Sometimes, words just don't seem to be enough to describe just how a place affects someone. Glendalough, the beautiful mountain monastery, was like that for me. I can describe the feelings all I like, but description can never get close to how moved I was by the site. Its intimacy with nature, its beauty and stillness, and its palpable sacredness touched me beyond words. I was desperately sad to leave Glendalough, but I left with an even stronger resolution to return one day.





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